Opinions
The Yukon: Where Time Slows Down and Your Phone Stops Working
Emma McFarland
The Yukon is not merely a territory. It is a lifestyle choice. One that quietly asks, Are you sure?
And then watches you try to start your car at -40 C.
Life in the Yukon has a way of stripping things down to the essentials. Not in a trendy minimalist way—more in a your phone has no service and neither does your ego kind of way. Out here, nature is not background scenery; it is an active participant in your daily plans. Weather is not something you check: it is something you negotiate with.
Let us start with winter, because the Yukon insists on it. Winter here lasts roughly nine months and lingers emotionally year-round. The sun sets at 3 p.m., rises when it feels like it and everyone pretends it is fine. Locals casually say things like, “Oh, it’s not cold today,” while standing in -30 C weather, their eyelashes frozen together in a quiet show of northern resilience. Tourists arrive wearing fashionable coats and leave wearing borrowed parkas, questioning every life choice that led them north.
Then there is summer, which lasts approximately three weeks and must be enjoyed aggressively. The sun does not set, sleep becomes optional and suddenly everyone is kayaking, hiking, camping and saying things like, “We should do this all the time,” knowing full well they will hibernate in a month. Summer in the Yukon feels like the land apologizing for winter by overcompensating with endless days away. Ravens act as if they own the place (and secretly, they do). Bears are respected, feared and discussed in daily conversation with the seriousness usually reserved for weather or politics.
In Whitehorse, Yukon’s capital, you will likely run into everyone you know at the grocery store, sometimes twice, and always when you look your worst. Everyone is somehow connected, either by work, church, high school or that one time their cousin dated your roommate. Privacy is a concept, not a reality.
And yet, despite the cold, the darkness and the questionable cell service, people love it here.
The Yukon has a way of getting under your skin. It teaches you patience, humility and how to start your car in temperatures that can feel spiritually illegal. It is quiet in a way that makes you listen.
So no, the Yukon is not for everyone. But for those who stay, it becomes home: a place where the coffee is strong, the winters are stronger and the people are tougher than they let on, usually hidden behind a toque and a very dry sense of humour.